Sunday, December 6, 2009

Grenoble


You can't say I didn't try.  I gave it two months and a lot of hope, but last week I finally decided I'd had enough of small town living.  I'm a city girl at heart, and after spending an amazing weekend with Andrew exploring Lyon and Grenoble, I decided to move into a quaint and quirky French apartment near the Stade des Alpes in the center of Grenoble, and along with it a big cut in my spending money.  Mais tant pis, c'est la vie en la belle France (may tahn-t pee, say lah vee on leh bell Frahn-s: But too bad, that's life in beautiful France).

The truth was, I was afraid that if I didn't move soon no one would ever want to talk to me again.  Life in La Côte Saint André brought out a whole new breed of pessimist in me that I didn't even know existed. So, I'm really thinking of my relocation as a mental health investment.  Don't get me wrong: La Côte is just as full of friendly people and pretty rolling hills as it ever was.  But I've spent my entire life in small towns.  I needed a change of pace.  I'm one of those people who gets a secret thrill out of over-crowded shops, busy traffic, and strangers walking down the street who never wave or say hi.  Unfortunately, this sort of high-quality lifestyle is usually reserved for high-population areas, and definitely doesn't exist in small-town France.



This sort of urban gruffness does exist in Grenoble, however.  In fact, Grenoble is one of those rare cities that makes up for in character what it lacks in size.  The entire city is surrounded by desolate mountain ranges that, at this time of year, are covered in neige (neh-j: snow).  Luckily this makes for amazing views out your window no matter how crappy the rest of your apartment might be.  The ancient stone cathedrals, Drac and Isère rivers, and la Bastille (lah bahst-eel) guarding over the city are all within (reasonable) walking distance, and no matter which street corner you're standing on, you're never far away from a glass of wine or cup of coffee in a toasty warm café (kaf-eh) offering reprieve from the frigid cold.


My own personal favorite part of being a new resident of Grenoble?  In a matter of the three days I've been living here, I've managed to get all my Christmas shopping done at Victor Hugo Square's fabulous marché de Noël (marsh-ay duh no-ell: Christmas market), which is basically a crowded smorgasbord of Alsace-inspired wooden looking vendor's booths selling random knickknacks and, more importantly, mulled wine.


Of course, as any true dorky francophile would, I also christened my new place with a bottle of cheap champagne I bought at the local Casino supermarket down the street.  And you know what I realized as I toasted to my own smart thinking at becoming a Grenoblois (gr-uh-nob-lwa: inhabitant of Grenoble)?  Drinking a glass of champagne in my apartment while listening to drunken teenagers stumble down the street and grumpy French drivers crash into each other never tasted so good.  Vive la France (veev lah Frahn-s: long live France)!

7 comments:

  1. Glad you're in a place that better suits you. Where was the photo at the top of your post taken from?

    The "marché de Noël" sounds like my own personal hell, but then again, they probably aren't playing all the american christmas carols, are they? Maybe that's what I ought to do next year; go to a country without (or with different) christmas carols.

    You'll have to let me know your new address so I can check it out on Google maps!

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  2. yes, leith, we need your new address!!! i'm so happy you're finally in a city! best of luck. it's snowing here! not looking forward to my drive home though. also, did you get alma's address or do you still need it!

    here's to celebrating with cheap champagne!! i had a bottle (!) of wine myself on saturday night up at the becks'!!

    happy holidays! love you, mom

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  3. Hey Leith, I saw this link through your facebook. This is a cool blogging site. I'm glad you like your new place! I keep hearing Grenoble is a nice place, I'll have to vist it before I leave.

    C'est marché de Noel en Aix en Provence est tres jolie! I could only imagine what the one in Grenoble looks like.

    Jessica( Zoe's friend)

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  4. Cai: the photo at the top was taken from le Bastille. You can take le téléphèrique--basically a glorified Boardwalk sky ride--to the Bastille, have a drink at the touristy bar there, and take lots of pictures of the city.

    And don't worry, they play plenty of American Christmas carols here too. I had my students sing Christmas carols today and they knew "We Wish You a Merry Christmas" by heart. Let me just say hearing my students sing that song reminded me more of that Christmas dinner scene from A Christmas Story than I can ever explain. Hilarious! In a good way...

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  5. Mom - Glad to hear you got nice and drunk, I guess. Sorry I missed out. Cannot believe that Sedona could be here any day now!

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  6. Jessica (Zoe's friend ;) - Aww, thanks for reading. I'd love to see the marchés de Noël in Provençe. I've heard they're amazing! The one in Grenoble is nice, yeah, but small. It really is a time saver though! Now I just have to ship the damn gifts!

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  7. Oh Leith! I am so happy you are in a good place! It sound beautiful. As I sit here in my freezing house, not studying for finals like I should be, wrapped up warm with a cup of very hot tea and enjoying the rain which has finally come to Southern California, I miss you and Lucia and our days past and am so grateful for our friendships!! Love you Leithy!!

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